Judith Martínez, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of World Language and Cultures
Missouri State University
Missouri
It is not a surprise that Mrs. María Perches has earned the name of Mama María in the Ozarks community. Doña María Perches has two children, however, many in the community see her culinary kitchen as part of her home away from home. María is known for a caring, kind, and loving personality. Her genuine love for her neighbor is visible in all her actions, she shows this in her delicious homemade recipes.
María Perches was born in Estación Guadiana, Durango. At an early age, she moved to El Paso and later relocated to Colorado. She met her husband, Jesús Humberto, there, and a year later they started a family. María decided to make Missouri her home as it was a wonderful place to raise a family with small children. They established themselves in Bolivar, Missouri where they lived for many years and where they saw their two children, Jesús Jr. and Zulema grow.
Like Mother, Like Son
As a young and working mother, María had to combine and wisely balance raising her children and fostering family values, unity, and solidarity as some of their most cherished principles. Although it was María who had the initial vision to open a restaurant, it was always a team effort. Together, Jesús Jr. and Maria opened Tortilleria Perches on July 5Th, 2005, turning their dreams into reality. Jesús Jr., María’s firstborn, remembers spending the night before, painting the new dream in his head. As a young man, who believed in his mother, he did not hesitate to step up to the plate. He has invested his time and talents to make the restaurant grow. He was only 22, but he oversaw a huge responsibility to run and manage a new restaurant while his mother took care of the kitchen, there was no time for hesitancy or doubt. Nevertheless, he proved that he was wired that way, Jesús was a businessperson at heart. He still remembers “the talk” his parents had with him. They explained the commitment working in the restaurant implied and all the sacrifices he would need to make as a young man. Jesús continued to pursue this journey side by side with his mother and has been able to build a balanced life with the business he has helped build and now a family of his own.
Building from the ground up
They started with a simple menu, the carnitas y barbacoa, menudo, pozole, caldos. But Jesús had a bigger vision and he wanted to expand the Mexican cuisine and a wider variety of options. He re-invented the menu and added more authentic dishes. Innovating is one of Jesús’s main recipes for success. He is certain that change is the only constant, and he continues to create novelties that appeal to his customers. Jesús has the talent to identify opportunities when he sees one. He is ready to transform challenges and open new paths to provide a new trend.
He states he “…had a mission and a vision to become a provider in the Ozarks” which he has certainly accomplished. He is a man of convictions and strong moral standards, always acknowledging that remaining humble is key to valuing what he has built with his mother. He remembers how he started advertising with flyers and door-to-door advertisements before social media was a popular venue. “I knew I had to work hard,” but he was always up for the challenge, and he knew the importance of reaching out to the community to bring people in. Without knowing, he was becoming an outstanding entrepreneur by experience. Jesús indicates that his mother has been his greater inspiration, “she has a huge heart, and she is a generous soul.” He remembers daily his mother’s slogan, “Hay que dar para recibir” (We must give to receive”). They are known for their welcoming smile. Jesús and María both are hospitable humans, and they have made hospitality the signature of their restaurant in the Ozarks, a place where you can find your mama’s food.
Tortillería Perches’ employees are a big part of the family. María believes in fostering a loving environment where everyone can flourish. They insist that workers must also agree that their dishes are a delicious piece of art. María shares what she cooks with the employees before any dish goes on the menu. Many of her dishes have a special history in her heart. For instance, the Durango dish reminds her of her hometown. There is a piece of her life in every part of the menu. She wants to make sure they know what they will be serving the community.
As a woman of faith, she “…prays for all employees and their families; I want to be a good role model for them.” The Perches’ run their restaurant as a team, a family, where they can find a very safe and welcoming environment.
Tortilleria Perches has grown in capacity and facilities in the past two decades. It has been an incredible journey together and a story of hard work, family values, and success. Jesus Jr. and Maria are recognized for helping several nonprofit and charity organizations in the local community. For the past decade, they have supported and sponsored one of the largest local soccer teams. The Perches family enjoys all kinds of sports and believes this is a fun way to support families, children, and young people in the local community. Jesús indicates he has followed his mother’s example in other areas as well. He enjoys watching his son 12-year-old, Jesús III, play sports. María, regardless of her busy schedule, makes the time to attend the activities of her three grandkids, Jesús III 12, Giovanni 10, Gabriel 8. She also enjoys rooting for the Mazatlan, Venados, soccer team. They both prioritize family and quality time with each other. Now that their team has grown, Zulema Perches has been in the picture working part-time as she raises her family. Tiffany Perches, wife of Jesus Jr., has improved the marketing strategies. She is also a mom and businessperson, who does everything to support her husband and mother-in-law. And Manny Torres whom Jesús describes as “…my right hand” is committed 100 percent and is now managing the rapidly growing catering schedule.
Although they have had challenges, they have managed to overcome them and grow stronger. Jesús shares his experience during COVID-19. They expanded the catering department and provided more jobs for people in the Ozarks. “Thanks to all the support we received, we stayed busy and, in turn, were able to help others.” This was a time of hardship for many people. The restaurant did not only worry about staying afloat, but providing jobs and opportunities for staff was equally as important. Jesús restated that his leaps of faith as his parents taught him are certainly a way of life.
Expanding the Market
In 2020, during one of the most challenging years, Tortilleria Perches and 4 By 4 Brewing Company, launched Perches Mexican Lager, a gold medal winning beer. They joined forces with brewery owner Chris Shaffer and staff, who became members of the family.
Since then, the beer has been distributed in numerous stores locally such as Joplin, Sedalia, Neosho, Monett, and is planning to go statewide in Missouri. The family also branded their own salsa, “Tortillería Perches Salsa Casera.” Jesús Jr. remembers “how difficult it was to come up with the exact measurements as my (María’s) mother always taught me to do things by heart, but we learned the process and it turned out exactly as we wanted it to.”
Tortilleria Perches is preparing for its upcoming 20th anniversary in 2025. It has certainly been a long and blessed journey. However, they have become a signature place to visit in the Ozarks, a home away from home. A place where Spanglish is spoken, but where food is the official language. The Ozarks and Missouri are thankful for families that have opened bridges for all and who provide unity for our community.
Judith Martínez, PhD. is currently an Associate Professor of Literature. She has served as the Provost Fellow for Faculty Development. She has been recognized for her research, teaching, and service. Judith was the recipient of the University Research award, as well as the Board of Governors recognition for her leadership and community involvement.